Friday, January 21, 2011

Abroad Trip Day 19 - Last Day in Chiang Mai!

I feel like our trip is over. We still have 5 days left, but it's the 5 days in Bangkok at the end of our trip, so it's the end of our trip...

Today was a first of 3 presentations days. We all gave a 5-10 minute presentation on ethnographic observations we made and cultural interpretations of those observations. I discussed how the early socialization of children into linguistically and visually distinct and strictly defined gender roles reproduces the gender hierarchy of men over women in Thai society. I love being a Womens Studies and Sociology major. Topics ranged from public displays of affection to clothing to differences in behavior in age groups to driving habits. Considering we were in presentations from 9-4 with an hour and half break for lunch, we had a lot of fun listening to each others interpretations.

For dinner, we had a class group dinner at "traditional" Lanna dinner. Lanna is the ancient kingdom of Northern Thailand. Tourist attraction hardcore. they fed us regional foods (but the spice was toned down for us Farang), and danced and performed traditional music in traditional costumes with traditional instruments. Most of it was tacky, but it was fun. I'll have a lot of pictures from other people after we share.

Tomorrow, we leave at 5am for a flight to Bangkok, where we will have 2 more presentation days of readings we've done through the course.

Thursday, January 20, 2011

Abroad Trip Day 18

Today was an early morning! We went with our tour guide, Arty, to her village to visit her uncle's temple and see the community service project he does there. Her uncle is a monk (and younger than her) and works with HIV+ women in the community to form support and reduce stigma in the village for HIV+ people. Because they can't work as much as a food vendor or farmer (between taking care of their kids, their parents, their husbands (who is HIV+, if alive), and their husbands parents, and fighting against economic discrimination for HIV+ people, the womens economic prospects are limited), they have all been trained to sew. Mainly, they sew outfits for monks in Japan, but they also make other things to sell, or things other customers demand. I bought an HIV/AIDS awareness bag for 130baht.

Then we went to a Leprosy Hospital which is not a rehabilitation center and nursing home, located near Chiang Mai. It was the first care center for people with leprosy in Thailand and was founded by a Presbyterian missionary. It is still very Christian and promotes Christianity through its services, but performs good services for people with disabilities, so it is probably good that it's here. Plus, the island was unused because the locals believed it was haunted by the spirit of a rampaging white elephant, so at least the space is being used, even though I would argue it could be used more effectively because there is a lot of space dedicated to empty buildings.

Anyway, we ate lunch at her friends house. She's a ladyboy and she's teaches cooking classes. She's wonderful. She made a delicious lunch of spring rolls, cashew chicken stir-fry and chicken and eggplant green curry. She then entertained us by answering all of our questions about being trans in Thailand. Ladyboy have bad reputation for being prostitutes and cheating people, but not most of them do that. If they've had surgery (top or bottom), they don't have to serve in the military. However, they are not allowed to legally change their gender, so her passport says male, not female. She was also very beautiful, with classy makeup and a modest yet flattering dress. I find it interesting how she exuded the ideals of Thai women's appearance better than most Thai women do. Probably because she has to try harder to prove she's a real woman. The same thing certainly happens with transpeople in the US.

After we got back, I got 2 coffees and did homework. Later, I'll probably go eat Indian food in the mall and get bubble tea! And get a lot of street vendor food, like sticky rice and fruit and roti. It's crazy to think that tonight is our last free night in Chiang Mai. Tomorrow we have a group dinner, then we leave early in the morning to fly to Bangkok. I don't want to leave! I love Chiang Mai! I guess I'll just have to go back one day!

Oh, and on a note about health: 3 people have been hospitalized with fevers and other illness symptoms at some point on the trip, but they're all doing better. One of them now has colitis, though. I got a rash on my collarbone, and developed a cough. Many of us, including me, have bedbugs.

Abroad Trip Day 17

Today we went to an NGO which works with HIV/AIDS affected kids (children whose parents have died from HIV/AIDS) and women who are infected with HIV/AIDS. They're a Christian organization which houses AIDS orphans and women and children dying from AIDS. Or at least that's how they started. Soon after, anti-retrovirals were introduced, and people stopped dying right away. Some kids have been living there since the mid-90s, and the HIV+ women have been living there for around a decade. Most of them have moved out of the shelter. It was a very interesting, moving NGO. They specifically help ethnic minorities in Thailand, mostly Akha and Lahu people. They have a kindergarten there as well to help Uplander kids learn how to behave in Thai schools (how to speak Thai, how to act in a classroom setting, etc). We got about 15 minutes to play with the kids on the playground. Crazy adorable! I pushed a train swing, and then the kids pushed me. It only took 1, though. Strong 5 year old!

Then we went to go eat lunch at ISDSI, which was our last time there with Pi Tik and Pi Carrie, who were our ISDSI teachers. We debriefed for an hour with them, then headed back to the hotel.

It was a homework-y afternoon. We have a 10 minute presentation on Friday, and a paired 30 minute presentation on Saturday, so we're all kinda overwhelmed with homework. After homework, some of us went to the mall for a pad thai dinner and bubble tea. There, we saw a strange sight. There were dozens of Thai women who were dressed really whorish-ly. Normally Thai women are pretty conservative, but all of these Thai women were wearing mini-dresses and mountains of make-up and accessories. They all went to the same place in the mall, so we figured they were going to a theme party or something.

Anyway, then we went to the night market to observe for our presentations and buy some last items. I got myself a coin purse (my other one broke), and a few hats for people. We also saw fish therapy feet tubs, where the fish eat your feet. But it was 120baht for 15 minutes. I would rather just get a real pedicure where fish eat my feet and not a night market booth. Also, I was wearing long tight pants, so it'd be hard to put my legs in water.

Then I worked on homework until the hotel worker came upstairs to turn off the lights in the lounge. I figured that was a good time to go to bed. Overall, I'm kind of glad we have a lot of homework. It demands reflection and speculation for what we've been seeing.

Wednesday, January 19, 2011

Abroad Trip Day 16

Today was an awesome day!
We left at 9am to go to an NGO whose main operation is fish-farming. They breed tilapia, then sell the fry to locals to raise in their ponds, who sell them back later as larger fish, when the NGO sells them to local fish markets and companies. The fish food is primarily plankton, which are fed by manure from the local cow and pig farms. They also do work with the locals creating a Christian community using local traditions, such as language and music.
In any case, we got to help retrieve eggs from the breeding ponds. Yup, we got to go in armpit-deep manure-y mucky ponds to grab fish and flush the eggs from their mouths. Awesome! It was actually a lot of fun. However, many students needed different shoes that wouldn't get lost in the muck. My chacos were good for it, but a couple workers went to the local market and got a bunch of cheap crappy shoes. They brought them back and students tried to find ones that fit. That's when the fun started. Turns out, cockroaches like to live in crappy shoes, and at least 3 pairs had about 10 cockroaches living in the shoes. That was fun. And funny. Picture it: 22 college students and 2 women putting on shoes filled with cockroaches, then dumping them all over the ground and bashing the shoes, paranoid there are more (most of the time, they were right; they held on pretty well). Even people who didn't have bugs started double checking and triple checking. Needless to say, very glad I had my chacos.
Anyway, we walked through the muck and the uck in the pond towards the netted mating pairs. The workers in wetsuits dragged a net through it so we wouldn't miss any, and we proceeded to scoop them up in a net, put it over a larger net (the eggs would fall through the first net but not the second so the fish wouldn't crush the eggs), open the mothers mouth and gills, and dunk her head in the water to flush the eggs out of her mouth. Tilapia hatch completely in a week, so they check the fish once a week or so, and have a few dozen mating groups with 100 pairs in each net. Each group gives a few thousand eggs each time, so they go through a lot of fish.
After, we ate fried tilapia (which is hard for us Americans used to frozen filets, but not for the Thai people who aren't afraid of eating bones) with rice, a stir fry and fruit. Very delicious. We were also given a concert by the music specialists at the fish farm. It was interesting to hear the local instruments. One was violin-like, only held vertically and rotated to change strings. The sound box was a coconut.
After we returned home, and showered for a long, long time, a couple of us went to do some much-needed laundry. However, our laundry machine kept breaking and we eventually washed only one load of laundry in 1 hour and 20 minutes. Unfortunately, we budgeted 50 minutes, and were 30 minutes late to our class dinner at a fancy hotel restaurant on the roof. :( It was still fun though.
When we got back, we went right back out again to the bars. We started at Blar Blar Bar, where I proceeded to drink a 1/3 of a bottle of scotch with pepsi. Not so bad, taste-wise, but after that I knew I was done for the night already. At Warm Up later, another person in our group drank half the bottle, and she wanted more. But we cut her off when she started acting like Farang Kinok (birdshit farang). The Thai people are very reserved. At bars and clubs, if they're really drunk, they might sway a little bit and tap their foot to music. There were some Australians there who were dancing like crazy, jumping everywhere and bumping in to everyone. They got a lot of glares. When they asked us to dance with them, we said "No, Thai people don't dance." and they said "We're not Thai!" When in Rome does not apply to them, I guess. Studying culture may have given us more sensitivity to respecting local norms, and therefore improving our safety. Fun night overall, but even drunk little me was babysitting. Ah well! Sabai Sabai!

Abroad Trip Day 15

Today was a nice, relaxing day. We got to sleep in and didn't leave til 9:45. We only went to ISDSI for a 2 hour lecture, then had the rest of the day off! Hoorah!
After eating lunch at OrgVeg and doing some homework, a few of us went to get a Thai Massage. 200baht for an hour is well worth it! Including the 20baht tip, that is an hour-long full-body massage for $7.34! We went in the nice shop, where they gave us tea and clothes to change into. Loose, baggy, light blue fishermens pants and a loose, baggy spring green long-sleeve shirt. We proceeded to go up 2 flights of stairs (there's a bedroom on the 2nd floor. I will leave you to your own conclusions), and through a hallway and down another flight of stairs. We proceeded to get pulled on, elbowed, pushed, slapped, kicked and gently rubbed. I felt so nice afterwards, but she could have been a little rougher on me.
After, we went to the night market to get dinner. Harder than it sounds. I walked along while other people bought some things, looking for a place to eat. We walked by a couple Arabic, Irish, German and American restaurants (expensive, and we didn't want to eat at McDonald's or Burger King), to stumble upon this hole in the wall Thai place. Er.... hole in the buildings, because there were no walls on this restaurant. It was a street vendor kitchen in a lot with some tables with a tarp over it. When we figured out it was a restaurant, we got really excited that we finally found a place we were willing to eat. Forget the fancy foreign food, give us a sketchy Thai street restaurant! I had been craving Indian food, so I got yellow curry soup with chicken and a lemon smoothie for 100baht ($3.34). Yum!
After, we seelaw-ed back to the hotel, then out to the bars. We started off, fittingly, at Warm Up, which is a pretty popular bar. It's a chill place with a lot of tables and a live band, and a goldfish pond where the goldfish were about the length of my forearm. We tried to go to Blar Blar Bar, but it was closed for a staff party, and the other bars were too fancy/empty or too crowded.
So, we went to Mike's. Mike's is a restaurant chain like an American diner. I got a chicken cheeseburger combo with fries and a chocolate milkshake. It was a perfect late-night drunchies fix for only 160baht ($5.34).

Sunday, January 16, 2011

Abroad Trip Day 14

Today we left at 8am to go to Wat Doi Sutep, the Buddhist temple on the top of the mountain. Wat = temple, Doi = Mountain. I am not sure what Sutep means. Unfortunately, even though we were at breakfast before 7:30, we were not served any food by the time we had to leave. The main woman wasn't there the day before, so maybe her kitchen and routine were messed up. Breakfast yesterday took forever, too. Oh well, we were going up the windy mountain road anyway, so less food means less motion sickness.

The temple was a crazy tourist attraction. Very ornate and very crowded. Lots and lots of farang. Tour buses of French and Korean and Middle Eastern people, just to see this temple. We went there to do an ethnography of the people there, so the wider variety of tourists besides French, English, Australian, Kiwi and American was quite refreshing. The market that's grown around there also provided me with delicious waffles for breakfast. I think everything has sweetened condensed milk in it. Even ice cream has sweetened condensed milk on top for syrup. Not that I'm complaining, though. :)

After, we came back for lunch and a lecture, then had the rest of the afternoon off. I went to Wawee coffee, did some homework, had some delicious coffee. Then I went to the place in front of org veg for dinner, and had a pepsi with it. Much sweeter but not as acidic as in the US. I went back to the hotel, did more homework, then went out for the Sunday Walking Market. I got a bunch of gifts for people and myself. I spent a lot of money, but it was only $25, but that is 750baht. Considering my dinner was 30baht and my pepsi was 20baht, it's a lot of money. Anyway, we took a tuktuk back from the market, and it's a lot of fun to ride!

A few of us went out to a bar called Panda'n'Roll, listened to the live punk cover band, had a beer, and called it a night. It was a pretty touristy day. Fun night, but touristy. We did go down market alleyways that other farang did not go down, though. Not sure why people didn't go there, because there were a lot of good deals.

Saturday, January 15, 2011

Abroad Trip Day 12 and 13

We went to Wat U-Mong yesterday for an overnight meditation retreat. It was... interesting. We arrived at 9am. We learned how to meditate using sitting, standing, reclining and walking methods. Walking is my favorite. While we were at the Wat, we had to obey all 8 Buddhist Precepts, not only the 5 that laymen follow. They are:

  1. Panatipata veramani sikkhapadarn samadiyani: I undertake the precept to refrain from taking the life of any living creature (Ironically, we ate chicken while there)

  2. Adinnadana veramani sikkhapadarn samadiyana: I undertake the precept to refrain from taking that which is not given.

  3. Abrahmacariya veramani sikkhapadarn samadiyani: I undertake the precept to refrain from incelibacy

  4. musavada veramani sikkhapadarn samadiyana: I undertake the precept to refrain from false and harmful speech

  5. surameraya-majja-pamadatthana veramani sikkhapadarn samadiyana: I undertake the precept to refrain from consuming intoxicating drink and drugs which lead to carelessness

  6. vikalabhojana veramani sikkhapadarn samadiyana: I undertake the training rule to abstain from eating at improper times (from noon to 7am, no eating. Only breakfast at 7:30 and lunch at 11).

  7. nacca-gita-visuka-dassana-mala-ghanda-vilepuna-dharana mandana vibhusanatthana veramani sikkhapadarn samadiyana: I undertake the training rule to abstain from dancing, singing, music, shows, wearing garlands, using perfumes and beautifying with cosmetics.

  8. Uccasayana mahasayana veramani sikkhapadarn samadiyana: I undertake the training rule to abstain from the use of high and large seats and beds (we slept on a mat made out of grasses).

Yup, those are the 8 rules. Anyway, we meditated for a couple hours every couple hours. About 9 hours total. We went to bed at 9pm, and got up at 4:30am for morning chanting and meditation. Yup, 5:30am, I was sitting outside, eyes closed, trying to not think and not fall asleep. Overall, the meditation wasn't bad. The Buddhism isn't that bad. The monk was... sexist? I think sexist, more so than necessary for a leader of a sexist religion who grew up in a sexist society and is now sexually repressed. Made comments like how women are complicated, and therefore need more rules. Or asked “teacher” a question, but didn't mean the woman with the PhD, but her male student who wants to teach, and actually cut her off mid-sentence when she started to answer. Not the best monk I've met by far. I much preferred the other monks at monk chat, but he says that monk chat is not as good as his monk chat. Also, he says Ladyboys and gay men cannot be monks, but we saw Ladyboy monks at other temples, and we have been told that Ladyboys and gay men can be monks as well. He later made fun of a male student for sounding gay when he accidentally said “-ka” instead of “-krup” at the end of a sentence. He blatantly favored the four male students over even our professor. When he asked for questions, and girls raised their hands, he asked the boys to ask questions when they did not have their hands raised. He also took three of the boys on a private field trip, and completely ignored the girl who went along as well. He gave them keychains and his email address, and took theirs. He even went so far as taking his favorite boy on a private walk, and asked him how often he masturbates. It was really strange.

In any case, it put a damper on the whole meditation retreat. As if not eating enough food, sleeping on the floor of a closet (my bedroom was 4x6feet, and freezing), and being sent outside at 5am when it was chilly weren't enough, right? I would put up with that and the sexist religion that says even the youngest male infant or most infamous criminal is a higher status than the most admired and respected women.

Anywho, I took a long shower when I got back, went to the mall, did homework with an iced mocha, and ate half a pineapple. Calmed down. Felt happy. :)